DAY NINETEEN

7/28

Hello to all my Jerusalem Blog fans.  I'll try to finish the posts on the last few days of the trip this week.  I know you're not supposed to 'back-blog' but oh well

DAY EIGHTEEN

7/27

Free day... we worked on our studio projects and walked around the Old City some.  I didn't take any pictures, sorry.  

DAY SEVENTEEN

7/26

Breakfast was brought to our rooms in a basket; which seemed odd, but I think was the case since it was Shabbat.  

First thing we set out to 

Rosh HaNikra.  Rosh HaNikra is a National Park established at the border between Israel and Lebanon.  It comprises a vast system of grottos made by the Mediterranean Sea into 

a steep cliff of white, chalk limestone.  The Bible mentions the general area around Rosh HaNikra in the book of Joshua.  In more recent times, the British built a rail road tunnel through

the grottos as part of their Cairo-Istanbul railway.  In the War of Independence of 1948, Jewish underground fighters took out one of the rail bridges within the grottos as part of an effort to stay off the enemy.  Rosh HaNikra is also the site where Israeli and Lebanese officials negotiated an armistice in 1949, which ended the Israeli-Lebanese aspect of the 1948 War.   

Next, we drove south to the city of Akko.  Also known as Acre, there is an extensive and very impressive Crusader fortress to be seen.  

As we continued south from Akko we drove through the city of Haifa, and glimpsed quickly at the Baihai Temple; which is set in a spectacular garden of a series of terraces, stepping down the side of a mountain towards the Mediterranean Sea.  

Last on the agenda was a stop by the ancient city of Caesarea.  To be seen at Caesarea are the ancient Herodian remnants of a theatre, amphitheater, hippodrome, palace, bathhouse; as well as Crusader and Turkish era fortresses and mosques.  

DAY SIXTEEN

7/25

After another delicious breakfast at the kibbutz we were led around the grounds for a tour to see where the kibbutz members live and work on a daily basis.  

We then headed north around the Sea to the Mount of Beatitudes.  The Church of the Beatitudes commemorates the hill from which Jesus gave the Sermon on the Mount; in which He gave the Beatitudes.  The church was built in 1938 and was designed in plan as an octagon... the eight sides representing the eight blessings of the Beatitudes.  

Next, we went to Capernaum.  At Capernaum are the ancient remnants of the city of the same name from the 1st century A.D.  Christian tradition believes St. Peter's house to be at this location, as as such, a Catholic church is built above it.  Also of importance here are the remnants of a synagogue, presumably the one from which Peter spoke and worshipped.  

Here, again, one sees the mix of Judaic art with Roman architecture.  Unique corinthian capitols are seen with emblems such as the menorah, and carved freezes from the entablatures of the buildings show menorah, the star of David and other Judaic symbols.  

We then drove to the Kibbutz Ginnosar.  Kibbutz Ginnosar is where the Sea of Galilee Boat is kept in a museum built specifically for that purpose.  Members of the kibbutz found the remnants of a 1st A.D. fishing boat in the mud near the kibbutz in 1986, a year of severe drought.  The Sea of Galilee Boat is other wise known as 'the Jesus Boat' because it is the type of vessel and from the correct time period as that in which Jesus and His disciples would have fished on the Sea of Galilee.  

We then drove further north to the border of Israel and Lebanon along the Mediterranean Sea at a town named Nahariya.  We dropped our stuff off at a kibbutz near by, then headed to the sea to jump in before it got too late.  Unfortunately, much of the Mediterranean coast at Nahariya is very rocky and the tide that evening was very strong, so we didn't swim much.  After the beach, we headed to Spaghettim, a chain of Italian restaurants in Israel, which I highly recommend.  

DAY FIFTEEN

7/24

I must make clear that you have not had a true Israeli breakfast until you eat at a Kibbutz in the Galilee.  The Kibbutz Ma'agan that we stay at along the Sea of Galilee grows much of their own food, and what they do not grow comes from a very close local source (as is the case anywhere in Israel).   The region along the Jordan River Valley has been blessed by many small micro climates perfect for growing various fruits and vegetables.  Hence, the quality of the fruits and vegetables found within Israel is very difficult to find in the United States.  In addition to the produce, many variety of fish, including the ubiquitous St. Peter Fish, add a unique touch to breakfast in the Galilee.  

After breakfast we headed up to the Golan Heights.  The Golan Heights are of great strategic importance to the region, and as of right now, Israel is in control of the plateau.  From the plateau one is afforded an excellent view of the entire Sea of Galilee, the city of Tiberius on the Western bank of the Sea, and the several Kibbutzim along the shores of the sea.  Hence, the strategic importance militarily.  Whoever controls that plateau is within 'range' of the entire Galilee valley.  The Golan borders Israel, Syria, Lebanon, and Jordan.  The UN has a base there, and keeps a close watch over the happenings of the locals.  The inhabitants of the Golan Heights are not Israeli citizens, but as I said, are under the control of Israel.  There is much dispute about this land, and who should control it.  

After taking in the view from the Heights, we drove further north to Kibbutz Naot.  Naot makes leather sandals, which are available worldwide, and at very expensive prices.  Lucky for us, they are less than half price at the factory store there at the Kibbutz where they make them.  

Next, we headed even further north to the National Park of Tel Dan.  Dan is the site of the spring that forms the Dan River, which is a tributary of the Jordan River.  The Tel at Dan is a mound of ancient cities, built, destroyed and built again, forming an artificial hill.  Here we find the remnants of the city of Dan from the time of Jeroboam and the Northern Kingdom of Israel.  Also found at Dan are remnants of an even older gate to the city walls of the city during the Neolithic period... more importantly, the time of Abraham.  The most significant find at Tel Dan, however, is that of a fragment of a stele, or funerary monument, which refers to the House of David.  This reference is very important in that it is the earliest archaeological evidence known to mention the name of King David.  

Besides the archaeological remnants and finds associated with Tel Dan, the National Park is a beautiful place to hike and enjoy a unique microclimate within Israel.  The spring that feeds the Dan River produces crystal clear, ice cold water.  The water rushes over rocks to create a much unexpected system of rapids.  Huge deciduous trees make up the lush forest.  

Last, we headed back up the mountains to an overlook, from which we gained an excellent view of the UN camp located at the borders of Israel, Lebanon, and Syria.  

DAY FOURTEEN

7/23

Wednesday the 23rd, our fourteenth day, we set out for our trip to the Galilee.  In order to give us a complete look at the Jordan River Valley, from the Dead Sea all the way up to the Sea of Galilee, we began our journey at Qumran.  Qumran is located along the Northwest bank of the Dead Sea.  Today, the visitor sees the ancient archaeological remnants of a settlement of the Jewish religious sect the Essenes.  The lesser known of the ancient Jewish religious sects (the Sadducees and Pharisees being well known because of Biblical accounts), the Essenes were separatists, who have gained attention and recognition within the last several decades, for their accomplishments as scribes and for the preservation of Biblical documents due to the 1947 archaeological findings within caves at Qumran.  

In 1947 over 900 scrolls were found within eleven caves at

 Qumran; which led to the archaeological dig to unearth the settlement of the Essenes.  The scrolls, named the Dead Sea Scrolls are the oldest Biblical documents known to be in existence.  The complete book of Isaiah is included in the collection... word for word accurate with the book

 of Isaiah we find today within our

Bibles.  This extraordinary archaeological find was possible due in large part to the climactic conditions surrounding the Dead Sea.  The high amount of oxygen, the heat, and the lack of humidity combine to make ideal conditions fo storing parchment.  Many archaeologists continue to work in caves surrounding the Dead Sea in search of other such scrolls.  

The ride from the Dead Sea north to the Galilee, we took the most direct route, through the Jordan River Valley.  This area is beautiful.  Unfortunately, this is the area under much dispute between Palestine and Israel.  

Our first stop along the way to the Galilee was at Bet She'an.  Bet She'an is the ancient Roman capital of the Decapolis, the ten Roman cities scattered around the region surrounding the Sea of Galilee.  Bet She'an is impressive in the completeness of the remnants of an ancient Roman city.  A spectacular theatre, amphitheatre, cardo maximus, bath house, and even a public restroom with running water from a fresh stream are at Bet She'an.  In addition, temples shops and the bordello are also main attractions of the downtown portion of ancient Bet She'an.  Still yet to be excavated is the entire residential section of the ancient city.  

Next, we went to Bet Alpha.  At Bet Alpha are the remnants of a sixth century A.D. synagogue.  This is of particular note because of the unique mosaic floor.  Judaic law prohibits decoration with the human form.  Therefore, it is interesting that the floor of a synagogue from the sixth century has not only human figures represented but the zodiac and the Greek god of the sun, Helios.  These symbols on the floor of a synagogue show the extent to which the Greek culture had permeated the Jewish culture, even to the point of influencing Judaic religious art.  

Our last stop on the way to the Galilee was at a oasis to take a swim.  Gan Hashlosha national park is a series of ponds linked by waterfalls, fed by a natural spring.  It is ranked among the 20 most attractive parks in the world.  

Later in the afternoon we arrived to the Ma'agan Holiday Village, run as the profitable source of income for the Kibbutz Ma'agan.  They have single rooms, and small villas facing out toward the Sea of Galilee.  Paul, Pat and I shared one of the villas.  For dinner, we drove around to the Eastern side of the Sea to Kibbutz En Gev for a fish dinner of St. Peter's fish, a type of tilapia found within the Sea of Galilee; which would have been a main fishing catch of the time of Jesus.  We had a bottle of Chardonnay by one of the local wineries, Gamla; which I highly recommend.  

DAY THIRTEEN

7/22

We took it easy as we were preparing for our trip to the Galilee.  In the morning, we took a city bus to the National Military Cemetery of Israel.  The cemetery is the resting place of many soldiers, political leaders, social leaders and religious leaders.  It is a beautiful place to stroll and enjoy the garden spaces created there.  It is located adjacent to the Yad Vashem complex, the Holocaust Memorial, and has an excellent view looking down towards that.  

Later this day, was the second bulldozer incident within Jerusalem.  It happened along King David Street, close to PBI, where we are staying.  Initial reports indicated that it was a copycat of the first bulldozer attack; but the authorities now say that it was an accident on the part of the bulldozer driver.  He apparently knocked into a car or two, and was shot by an off-duty police officer before anything else could happen.  

DAY TWELVE

7/21

Day twelve we first walked across town to the Garden Tomb.  The Garden Tomb is owned and operated by a group of non-denominational British Christians.  It is one of the sites within Jerusalem thought to be a possible location of the crucifixion, burial, and resurrection of Jesus Christ.  This site has many of the features of the garden of Joseph of Arimathea, described within the Bible.  For example, the garden is adjacent to a large hill or cliff of stone having natural formations, which closely resemble a face.  The Bible describes the place of Jesus' death as Golgo

tha, the skull.  The Bible, in the book of John, tells of the tomb of Jesus being within a garden of a wealthy man named Joseph of Arimathea.  There is, in fact, a huge, underground cistern and ancient wine press; which indicate an ancient garden of a wealthy individual... because only wealthy individuals of that time period would have had a cistern such as that for their gardens.  And the tomb... there is a tomb, which archaeologists date to the 1st century.  The tomb was found with no inscriptions or indication of having been used.  The physical evidence of the site, the archaeological evidence found and the Biblical description matching accurately, lead one to wonder if this could actually have been the location of those events.  It was fantastic to visit this place and ponder that.  It was very powerful to enter the tomb and have a moment of reflection to give thanks for what I believe as a Christian to have taken place in such a setting.  To me, it does not matter if those events took place at this particular garden or at the site of the Shrine of the Holy Sepulchre... all that matters to me is that it did in fact happen!  

After our visit to the Garden Tomb, we walked back towards the Old City.  Along a portion of the wall of the Old City is an entrance to an ancient cave/quarry.  Today, it is run as a tourist/archaeological museum called Zedekiah's Cave.  The cave was formed by the quarrying of limestone for the building of the 1st and 2nd Temples.  The cave is a network of passageways and caves extending deep underneath the Old City to a depth of nearly twenty stories underground.  It is obviously manmade due to the chisel marks to be seen on the walls and ceilings.  Legend has it that Zedekiah was thrown in to this cave, as per the Biblical story; hence the name of the cave today.  In recent history, the cave was the site early Masonic meetings and even a sect of Judaism, which believes in worshiping underground.  The cave was also used as a bomb shelter during World War I.  

Then we walked along the Old City wall a short distance until we reached the Damascus Gate.  At the base of the Damascus Gate is the entrance to an archaeological museum beneath theDamascus Gate and portions of the Muslim Quarter of the Old City.  This archaeological museum is the site of the Roman or Herodian period Damascus Gate.  The original paving stones are there with remnants of walls and buildings.  

Later, after lunch, we walked up the street to the office of world renowned architect, Moshe Safdie, for a meeting to discuss some of his current and past projects.  As mentioned several times previous in this blog, Safdie has designed a great many buildings within Jerusalem.  Its hard to walk anywhere within the city and not see his work.  Closer to home, he has designed the new ATF building in Washington, DC at the intersection of New York and Florida Avenues.  

DAY ELEVEN

7/20

First we visited the Knesset building.  The Knesset is the Israeli version of a Congress.  The building is mundane, but has some fantastic mosaics and tapestries by the artist Chagall.  Unfortunately, for security reasons, we were not allowed to take pictures at the Knesset; so you must use your imagination.  

Next, we walked through a large park 

to the Supreme Court.  The Supreme Court is housed in a beautiful building funded by the Rothschild family.  The building is an excellent example of a modern architectural form with strong symbolism to the past, to culture and to religion.  For example, a massive wall seems to bisect the building, representing the Western Wall.  Also, the doorway portals into each of the five courtrooms are symbolic of the Menorah.  

DAY TEN

7/19

We mostly relaxed on this Shabbat.  Blanca, Paul and I took breakfast at the YMCA around the corner from PBI.  As unenthusiastic as that sounds to many who view a YMCA as a large gymnasium, the Jerusalem YMCA, as I think I've mentioned in a previous blog, is an incredible piece of 1920's architecture.  It is a massive stone building, the focal point being a centrally located belfry over the main entrance, from which they give bell recitals several times a week.  The main block of the building has arcades along the ground floor and is flanked by two wings designed to be reminiscent in form of synagogues.  The whole composition of the building is beautiful and interesting.  Anyway, we ate at the restaurant located in one of the small courtyards fronting the building.  It was a great way to relax after a long week of traveling and sightseeing.  And, best of all, they serve non-Kosher food... which meant... bacon and sausage!  (Photo: 1933, www.jerusalemymca.org)  

After breakfast we returned to PBI.  While relaxing on the third floor loggia outside my room, I was serenaded for several hours by a bell recital from the YMCA I just told you about.  It was quite nice.  

In the afternoon we walked over to the Old City to visit the Church of the Redeemer, the only Lutheran church within the Old City.  It was built in 1898 and is spectacular in the simplicity of design form and ornamentation.  As you can tell, I prefer the church buildings here that are simplistic. 

 

The beautiful architecture of the Church of the Redeemer aside, the reason most tourists visit is to climb the small, circular staircase within the belfry, high above the Old City, to get a glimpse of the incredible view.  In the top level, within the arcades of each side of the tower, one is shown amazing views of the Old City and modern Jerusalem together.  

DAY NINE

7/18

In the morning of the eighteenth we took a bus to the area of Jerusalem dubbed the 'entrance to the city'. The major streets of Herzl Boulevard and Jaffa Road intersect here, as well as the city's light rail mass transit system, currently under construction.  The focal point and defining feature of this space is the newly constructed Chords Bridge designed by world renowned architect Santiago Calatrava.  The Chords Bridge or Bridge of Strings spans the massive intersection and will carry the light rail trams as well 

as pedestrian traffic.  

Next, we met up again with David, our tour guide extraordinaire.  He walked us around the open air market of the new (meaning not 'Old City') portion of the city.  We had lunch at a little hole-in-the-wall place within this market that served terrific Lebanese food.  

DAY EIGHT

7/17

Day eight took us to the West Bank of Palestine, to the city of Bethlehem.  It is both exciting and sad going over to Bethlehem.  Bethlehem being in Palestine, you have to go across the border and through the security check point at the wall.  Unless... you know the one bus route that is allowed to go the road that bypasses the check point.  We happened to be well informed and were able to do that route and forgo the security checkpoint.  

After we arrived in Bethlehem, at Nativity Square, we went to the main tourist attraction, the Church of the Nativity.  The Church of the Nativity is a Catholic/Orthodox church built over the cave, which is thought to be the birth place of Jesus.  The Orthodox portion of the church dates to the time of Constantine and has a portion of the original mosaic floor of highly detailed complexity.  There is also a Catholic church as part of the Nativity Church 'complex', which is a bit newer.  It is beautifully proportioned and has a restrained and mature level of detailing making the space very comfortable.  A beautiful rose window of orange and yellow above the organ in the apse of the nave floods the church with a wonderful golden light.  There are also several chapels built under the main portions of the church.  These chapels are built into caves, similar to that in which Jesus would have been born.  

 

The actual cave thought to be the one in which He was born is uncertain, but is commemorated in a cave under the alter of the Orthodox portion of the church.   

After visiting the Church of the Nativity, we bought a few things at the Bethlehem Tourist Center, the only real establishment dedicated to the promotion of the industry of tourism... the major source of income for Bethlehem.  We also had lunch at a nearby restaurant, which was owned by a Palestinian Christian.  It is my understanding that a large portion of the Palestinian population in Bethlehem is made up of Christians.  

DAY SEVEN

7/16

Day seven was our day trip to Tel Aviv.  Tel Aviv is a beach/port town on the Mediterranean Sea.  It was hot... and very humid.  I like the weather in Jerusalem much better because there is no humidity.  We took a bus because there was some problem with the train; it took about an hour.  Once in Tel Aviv, we ate at McDonald's... which had far superior food to our McDonald's in the States.  In Israel, all the cattle is raised to Kosher standards.  As such, the beef produced is excellent.  And yes, it does make a difference, even in a McDonald's hamburger.  

We took a local bus to the historic port of Jaffa, now just a suburb of Tel Aviv.  Jaffa port dates to the crusader period and is being restored as a quaint place to live and for tourists to eat and shop.   

We then taxied back to Tel Aviv to go to the beach.  The beach was excellent.  Sand as soft as baking flour, the water very warm.  We swam some, and relaxed in the lounge chairs at the beach restaurant, eating humus.  

DAY SIX

7/15

...was a relaxed day.  We met with our professor, Julie, in the morning to discuss our projects.  Then, after an early lunch, we set out to walk to the Jerusalem City Municipality building.  At the Municipality we met with the Chief Architect of Jerusalem, Ofer Manor.  Ofer gave a presentation about the current challenges in urban planning and design for the city of Jerusalem.  One of the main issues concerning his career within the last decade has been the establishment/enlargement of the 'city center', a section of new Jerusalem.  Specifically, he has been concerned with the rejuvenation of a group of streets, transforming them into a network of pedestrian streets to form the 'city center'.  Recently, the attitude of the city planners has changed towards the Old City and they now are beginning to incorporate the Old City into the enlargement and rejuvenation of the 'city center'.  

One of the main initiatives of the 'city center' rejuvenation is to incorporate a light rail system into the streetscape of the main artery street (in America we like the catchy term 'Mainstreet').  The light rail mass transit system is being utilized all over Europe.  It is a pedestrian-friendly method to incorporate fast, reliable and attractive mass transit to a streetscape.  

I include a picture of the light rail system in Houston, Texas as an example for those who are uncertain what I am talking about.  The light rail in Jerusalem will be similar.  

DAY FIVE

7/14

Monday, we met with David, our tour guide, early in the morning to walk to the Temple Mount.  Only on Monday mornings can visitors go up onto the Temple Mount.  The Temple Mount, as many of you know, is where the Temple of Solomon used to be.  After that, King Herod built the Second Temple, which was also torn down.  Now atop the Temple Mount is the Al Aqsa Mosque and the Shrine called the Dome of the Rock.  The Jewish consider the wall at the base of the Temple Mount, facing west, toward the Jewish Quarter of the city, their holy place... the Wailing Wall.  

It is a privilege to be able to go atop the Temple Mount, because, as I said, 

it is only open in the morning on Mondays and most tourists cannot fit it into their schedules.  Biblically, the Temple Mount area is signifiant for multiple reasons.  The mountain's Biblical name is Mount Moriah.  It is the location where Abraham took Isaac to be sacrificed.  The first temple of Solomon was located here.  And, when King Herod was in power, he leveled the top of the mountain, made a huge plateau, much as we see it today, and rebuilt the Temple of Solomon for the Jewish people.  That being the case, this is the site where Jesus chased the money changers out of the Temple, where He would have talked to the crowds or to the Pharisees.  Here is where the crowds of people would have been, so here to is where Jesus would have been.  

After the Temple Mount, we headed down to the Pool of Bethesda.  Like the Temple Mount, the Pool of Bethesda is a site we know for fact to be a Biblical location, proven with archeological remains.  The Pool of Bethesda is mentioned in John Chapter 5 when Jesus heals the paralytic man.  Unfortunately, throughout history, many churches have been built over the site, so most of what we see today are remains of those churches.  However, the most well preserved Crusader-era church, St. Anne's, is one this site as well, and is a beautiful example of that era of church design, and has amazing acoustics to listen to a choir sing.

  

Once we left St. Anne's and the Pool of Bethesda, we walked to the convent Ecce Homo.  Ecce Homo was built over the ancient remains of the Antonia Fortress.  The Antonia Fortress was the fortress King Herod built to overlook the Temple Mount, essentially to keep 

an eye on the Jews as they were in the Temple Mount but to keep a distance as well.  The Antonia Fortress was the site of the mock trial of Jesus and where he was beaten and mocked by the Roman soldiers.  This is archeological fact, not tradition or legend.  In the basement of the convent are the remnants of the courtyard of the Antonia Fortress.  The massive paving stones of that courtyard are incised with ancient Roman games.  The Bible describes the soldiers playing a game to win the garments of Jesus after beating him.  Hence, this is the location where that happened.  

Later on in the afternoon we met with famous Israeli architect David Resnik.  He has had an interesting life to share, and was very cordial to discuss his experiences and architecture with us in a candid and casual manner.  Mr. Resnik was born in Brazil.  Shortly after getting married, he moved to Israel in 1949; only a year after the nation's independence.  He opened his office in 1958; and was also a professor of architecture at Catholic University for a period.  

DAY FOUR

7/13

Today we walked through the close by neighborhood of Yamin Moshe on our way to meet with architect David Guggenheim.  Yamin Moshe is built terraced along one of the hills overlooking the Old City.  It is picturesque and a very desirable residential area.  

Architect David Guggenheim's office is in an area called the German Colony.  He talked with us about some of his commissions here in Jerusalem and also offered critique on architecture within Jerusalem in general.  

DAY THREE

7/12

Saturday is the Sabbath.  As such, the Jewish people do not work.  Nothing is open until the evening when Shabbat ends.  We went to Shabbat service with our professor at the Hebrew Union College.  In the afternoon, Blanca, Paul and I walked around.  We wandered around the local YMCA and the King David Hotel, both of which are very nice hotels.  Then we went to the Shrine of the Holy Sepulchre.  

DAY TWO

7/11

The morning of Friday, our second day, we visited the Holocaust museum in Jerusalem, Yad Vashem.  The main building of Yad Vashem is the Hall of Remembrance, designed by Moshe 

Safdie.  The Hall of Remembrance is a long, triangular shaped building that cuts through the mountain and features splayed ends.  One enters the Hall at one end and can see the wonderful view of the valley at the other end, but cannot go directly there.  The visitor is instead directed through a series of rooms commemorating the various elements of the Holocaust.  Finally, after the last exhibit room, featuring the Allied forces' victory over the Nazis, the visitor is led to the exit porch.  This porch is located in the splayed end of the triangular mass of the building, opposite the entrance.  Here, the visitor is greeted with the beauty of the valley, the light at the end of the dark tunnel, so to speak.  

After Yad Vashem, we taxied to the Israel Museum.  Most of the Israel Museum was closed for renovation, however we were able to visit the Shrine of the Book.  The Shrine of the Book is the portion of the Museum complex that is dedicated to the findings of the Dead Sea Scrolls, specifically the book of Isaiah.  This portion of the Museum is underground, with a Hershey Kiss shaped white dome and a black, rectangular box, both protruding from the ground as sculptural elements within the garden.  These white and black elements represent the forces of darkness and light mentioned within the text of Isaiah.  Recently, the Museum has finished building the room specially designed to house the actual scroll of Isaiah.  It was very exciting to see the oldest piece of Biblical text known to be in existence.  

Also within the Israel Museum complex is a huge scale model of the Old City of Jerusalem as it is thought to have existed during the Herodian or Second Temple Period.  The model is updated/changed frequently as archeological evidence supports or disproves the way an element of the city actually existed.  

DAY ONE

7/10

We began the first day of our trip with a tour of the Old City.  As was the case last year, our professor Julie's cousin, David, is our tour guide.  David led us through the Souk, the marketplace of the Old City, until we reached the Jewish Quarter.  Once in the Jewish Quarter, the main road of the ancient city becomes apparent.  The cardus maximus, was the main North-South road of all Roman cities in antiquity.  The standard width of these roads was approximately 36 feet.  They were lined on both sides with a colonnade, in the case of Jerusalem, with corinthian columns.  This colonnade was then covered with a wooden frame, supporting a clay tile roof, thus creating shelter for shops and venders.  The cardus maximus in Jerusalem ran from the Damascus gate, 

in the North, to the Zion gate, in the South.  

After walking the remnants of the cardus maximus, we went to the Wohl Museum of Archeology.  This museum is underground, beneath apartment buildings and such.  The museum shows the foundation walls and mosaic floors of Herodian-period, upper class Jewish homes.  This is the upper class world of the Pharisees where Jesus would have eaten on occasion, as described in the Bible.  This area of Jerusalem during the Herodian period was referred to by Josephus as the Upper or Western Hill as it occupied the western-most, highest point within the city, therefore catching the breezes, which made it ideal for the upper classes who could afford to live there.  

Following the tour through the Wohl Museum, we made our way down to the Western or Wailing Wall.  To the south of that area is the Davidson Center / Jerusalem Archeology Park.  This archeology park is situated at the south-western base of the Temple Mount.  Here, one may walk the actual road surrounding the Temple Mount where Jesus walked, and imagine the merchants selling animals for sacrifice at the Temple.  

Pontifical Biblical Institute

PBI is our home for the month we spend here in Jerusalem.  The building is constructed of local Jerusalem stone, a type of limestone of a beautiful golden-tan hue.  PBi was built in the late 1920's in the neo-Romanesque style.

PBI is located along Emile Bota Street, near the affluent Jerusalem neighborhoods of Kfar David and Yamin Moshe.  A short five minute walk to the Old City, PBI is also near the five star hotels of the King David and the Citadel of David.  Also in the neighborhood is the beautiful campus of Hebrew Union College, designed by world renowed architect Moshe Safdie.  

The Shrine of the Holy Sepulcher

7/12

Saturday afternoon, Paul, Blanca and myself took a stroll through the Old City to visit the Holy Sepulcher.  Upon arriving at the small plaza at the entrance to the Sepulcher, the Mosque of Omar, across the plaza, was having the afternoon call to prayer.  A few moments later we were inside the most Holy site to Christianity, listening to monks chanting while breathing the sweet aroma of the incense.  At every corner within the Old City of Jerusalem one encounters the mixing of these diverse religions; the Holy sites, the people, the customs, the bells, chanting, singing and praying.